Paws and Ruffresh   Join some of Denver's finest restaurants for a food and wine tasting event to benefit the MaxFund Animal Shelter. The event features the sultry songs from Gary Meyers new CD A Flamenco Journey, performed live. Enjoy food from over 25 local restaurants while local wine shop Reserve List pours selections from their inventory. There will also be a raffle and silent auction. Soft drinks will be available for children. Participating restaurants include Racines, On The Border, Gennaros, Old Chicago and more! Join in the fun and support a very worthy cause. Buy your tickets online today at http://www.pawsandruffresh.org/. Your contribution is tax deductible for those who itemize.

When: Tuesday, May 1, 2007 from 5 PM - 8 PM
Where: Sheraton Four Points -- Interstate 25 and Hampden
Adults: $25 ($30 at the door)
Kids under 12: $10 ($12 at the door)

It is time for the annual Furry Scurry Please join Denver Dumb Friends League for this two-mile walk and fun run in Washington Park at 9am on Saturday, May 5, 2007. This fund raiser helps DDFL care for as many as 25,000 homeless animals every year. Enjoy refreshments, activities and shop for pet-friendly merchandise. You can register online today at http://www.ddfl.org. Day-of registration will begin at 7am and walk will commence at 9am. Enjoy free refreshments and demonstrations before, during, and after the walk. Shop at the vendor booths. Enter our Pet/Person Look-alike contest at 10:15 a.m. and Best Pet Trick contest at 11am. Event hours are 7:00am to 12:00 pm. Your contribution is tax deductible for those who itemize.

Fees:
Standard: $50.00 for General Registration
Lazy Dog Registration: $50.00
If you'd rather sleep in, they will miss you. If you send in a minimum of $50, you will receive by mail a limited-edition Furry Scurry T-shirt (two weeks after the event).
Corporate Team: $45.00

German Shepherd Dogs
When many of us think of the German Shepherd, we think of the countless depictions of these dogs working for the German military during World War I and World War II. There are more than one of these dogs running around even today with the name Schultz. There is a lot of truth to this portrayal. The breed was a herding dog in Germany up until the late nineteenth century when Captain Max von Stephanitz discovered the dog. He was so impressed with its bravery, loyalty, strength and intelligence that he established a breeding association for the dog.
      Because von Stephanitz knew that herding jobs for dogs were becoming more and more rare, he designed a breeding program that focused on service to police and military. By the First World War, a little more than a decade later, the German Shepherd would be used as a sentry, personal guard dog, messenger, and rescue dog. British and American soldiers were so impressed with the breed that many dogs where brought home with them after the war.
      In 1919 the English Kennel Club declared the breed with only 54 dogs registered. A mere seven years later the rolls had grown to over 8,000. It was thought that the breed would suffer with the name German Shepherd, so its official name was changed to Alsatian Wolf Dog. Later the name was changed to Alsatian Dog because of fears that people associated with wolves. It was not until 1977, after decades of protest, that the dog's official name was changed back to the German Shepherd Dog here in the U.S. Surprising since many of us have never known them as the Alsatian Dog.
      The German Shepherd Dog is the third most popular breed here in the U.S. according to the American Kennel Club. They are used as police dogs, drug and explosive sniffing dogs, guard dogs, and have dominated the service and guide dog industry. Their most popular role is that of the family companion, because along with being highly trainable and intelligent, they are loyal, affectionate animals who enjoy the family lifestyle.

Michelle from Aurora writes:
I just adopted two cats from a shelter who are brothers. I forgot how much damage a cat can do to furniture and rugs. As a team, Brando and Elvis are ruining my furniture.
Q: How do I cut my cat's nails? It seems a little intimidating, considering I've heard that I could injure them.
A: Some cats take getting their nails trimmed well. For those cats that are a little nervous about you snapping off their claws with a tool, try cutting just a few of the nails when the cat is sleepy. The cat must be very relaxed. See how many you can cut before the cat's composure changes; at that point stop. You might find that your boys do not mind pedicures. If one of them does, as long as you make it short with no anxiety, you both will have an easier time. If this is the case you may need to accept this and cut a few nails every few days. Do not forget the dewclaws, they are in the same place you find a thumb on a human. You should trim your cats nails every two to three weeks.
     You can buy specially made claw trimmers at any pet supply store or use the diagonal human fingernail clippers. Only trim the front paws since the back paws generally do not do much damage. Hold Brando's paw in between your finger and thumb and gently squeeze the toe to expose the nail. Only cut the first third of the nail and stay well below the quick, which is the dark red interior of the claw (a blood vessel). If you cut too high, it will bleed and you might need to get the cat medical attention. A cat who has had a nail or two cut too short is extremely frightened of getting his nails trimmed, for good reason, so it is important for medical reasons and for future grooming, to only cat the tips of the claws. It is best to cut a little and be safe, than cut too much and never be able to get near Elvis with clippers again.
     Only cut the first third of the nail and stay well below the quick, which is the dark red interior of the claw (a blood vessel). If you cut too high, you might need to get the cat medical attention. A cat who has had a nail or two cut too short is extremely frightened of getting his nails trimmed, for good reason, so it is important for medical reasons and for future grooming, to only cut the tips of the claws. It is best to cut a little and be safe, than cut too much and never be able to get near Elvis with clippers again.
     Providing your cats with a few scratching posts can reduce the amount of attention they pay to your leather sofa. If your cats seem uninterested in the scratching post, try moving it to another area of the house. Cats tend to like their scratching posts near doorways and traffic areas. Remember, scratching is not just to maintain their claws; it leaves their scent behind, so a well traveled thoroughfare is the perfect place for a post. If it is practical, you can to minimize the attractiveness of your furniture by it moving away from door ways and walkways. Placing foil around furniture when this is not practical works well because cats don't like to walk on foil. (But then again, who does?)
     Our last bit of advice is to use a water bottle to train your cats to stay away from the furniture. Praise them when they use the scratching post. Since you have two cats, you might want to look into getting them a cat tree. The sisal rope wound supports are a favorite scratching post with most cats.

Those of you who have been reading the Tenaker Pet Talk newsletter might recognize this cat. He has been pictured on the newsletter a few times. His name is Johnny. A few weeks ago Johnny started sneezing. He had colds before, lost his appetite, but always rebounded. This time, he would sit in the kitchen and meow for something to satisfy his hunger, but refused to eat what was put before him because he could not smell. He slowly stopped eating his dry food; even canned food, raw tuna, and cooked shrimp were unappealing. I was baffled and took him to the veterinarian because he had not eaten at all for a second day in a row. To my horror, he had lost two and a half pounds.
     He did not seem sick. In fact, he seemed quite healthy, other than the occasional sneeze. That day would be the last time Johnny would affectionately jump into my lap, purring so loud he was chirping. Because of his weight loss, it was recommended that I begin force feeding him. Over the next nine days he would go back to the doctors for subcutaneous fluids several times. I would roll him in a towel and prop him up to feed him with a syringe. A diet of yogurt, pumpkin, and gruel made with Hills a/d were administered many times each day.
     Johnny died despite my steadfast efforts. He and his sister were to celebrate their fourth birthday this month. Lucy is patiently waiting for him to come home by sleeping on his perches and in hiding places. Her heartbreak will be as devastating as mine because they were buddies.
     Johnny succumbed to fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis), a deadly illness for cats. Johnny might have lived if I had addressed his lack of appetite sooner. Fatty liver disease can happen quickly, even after a few days of refusing to eat, especially for an overweight cat like Johnny. Once the liver reaches this status, it takes intervention for a cat to survive because it will not begin eating again on its own.
     Know how much each of your cats eats on a daily basis. My handsome, young friend did not die in vain as long as this article saves one cat from his fate. I did not know exactly how much Johnny ate, so when he started to starve himself I wasn't aware of how grave the situation was. Beware of colds, which can rob a cat of their appetite through the loss of smell. Take any decline in appetite seriously; it could save your cat's life.

Rattlesnake bites in dogs and cats
Most dogs, cats, and humans living in the Denver area will never encounter a rattlesnake. A majority of rattlesnake bites happen, not by accident, but because the snake was not allowed to escape, but rather was wrangled by a shovel or stick, sniffed at by a big wet nose, or swiped at by a fur clad paw.
      A majority of rattlesnake bite victims survive, whether it be a dog, cat, or human, because they seek immediate medical attention. Most dogs are usually bitten on the nose and face because they want to sniff the snake, while cats are bitten on the paw because they want to swat at the snake. A bite is particularly serious if the dog or cat has been bitten in the eye, mouth, or ear area because of the concentration of blood vessels. Being bitten in the chest is also very serious because of the proximity to the heart and other vital organs.
      Rattlesnakes have a distinctive triangular shape to their head with a noticeable neck. They also have vertical pupils, whereas non-poisonous snakes have round pupils and a more streamline design between their head and body. With this said, if you or your pet gets bitten by a snake, don't try to identify it, allow it to get away! Snakes will strike again and again, which will make the situation worse if the snake is indeed poisonous. When in doubt, seek medical attention quickly. If the bite was from a poisonous snake, swelling will be fast and considerable. Remove anything from your animal that is close to the bite that will restrict circulation, like a collar or bandana. (This includes rings, bracelets, watches, clothing, and shoes for humans.)
      Rattlesnakes can strike so fast that their movement is indiscernible to the human eye. A rattlesnake does not have to be coiled to strike. They can strike in any position, but if given enough of a warning they will coil, because this posture gives them the best striking distance. Often rattlesnakes strike first and rattle after, so do not rely on hearing them. Rattlesnakes are deaf, so if you hike, carry a stick and use it to announce your path by tapping it on the ground and poking it ahead of you in overgrown areas. Rattlesnakes are sensitive to vibrations and will get out of your way if you give them enough warning.
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